The Sespe Wilderness, just north of Ojai along the scenic route 33, is a unique sanctuary for a massive and diverse landscape. Part of Los Padres National Forest, it borders the Sespe Condor Sanctuary, and stands as a fertile refuge for endangered life. Traveling to Willett Hot Springs is 20 miles roundtrip and yields dramatic views of the Topatopa Mountains, Hines Peak, and surrounding canyons.

Basic Info:

• 20 miles roundtrip
• River crossings
• Camping is all along the river
• Fire permits required
• Adventure Pass required

The Sespe Wilderness was once in peril due to the proposed construction of five hydro-electric dams in 1915. To witness this ecosystem in its present form is a blessing, but also a harsh reminder that rivers all across the globe face this menacing threat. Sespe Light and Power went bust, and thanks to conservation, the Sespe runs free as one of the last rivers unimpeded in California.

Driving to Sespe is a pleasure. After rising up and over Wheeler Gorge, the road forks right to Rose Valley. It’s only a few short miles to the Piedra Blanca trailhead, surrounded by captivating rock forms. The trailhead is marked by a fairly large parking lot, a restroom, signs, and stock paddocks for packers. Be sure to display an Adventure Pass in the car before embarking.

A trip report follows the map, pictures, and video:

Willett Hot Springs – Sespe Wilderness at EveryTrail

I set out with Margaret shortly after 10:00 AM, on a cool morning in early June. It was Memorial Day weekend, and there were a lot of cars in the parking lot, which was to be expected for the holiday. We weren’t concerned, however, because the scenery immediately took us in and transfixed our attention, distracting us from cares about anything else.

The hike began mostly flat with a handful of easily navigable stream crossings. The trail is very obviously blazed and easy to follow. Traversing the course of the Sespe River, you begin upstream and travel downstream.

On the northern side, the scarred remains of a recent wildfire remain, but nature’s resilient beauty rebounds. On the southern side, curious canyons carve off from the stream bed, venturing deeper into Sespe Wilderness. In one of these canyons lies a cave with Chumash rock art paintings. The Forest Service doesn’t publish literature on the cave’s whereabouts in an effort to protect them from careless visitors. I found Bradley John Monsma’s book “The Sespe Wild: Southern California’s Last Free River” on visiting the rock art a fascinating read, and while I may never find the location, his experience is all I need.

Passing by the canyons across the river inspires the imagination to wonder what secrets they might hold just out of view; the tops of mature trees rise up from their valleys.

We arrived at Bear Creek camp, the halfway point (5 miles), in time for lunch, and grabbed a spot near the river to enjoy sandwiches. Most day hikers will turn around here. There are sites all along the course of the river to enjoy and take a dip. Bear Creek has a particularly deep pool ideal for swimming.

After Bear Creek, the river crossings seem to get more difficult, depending on how much water is moving through. When we were there, it was maneuverable without getting wet. Earlier in the spring will definitely require getting wet, so be prepared for that. After the second river crossing from Bear Creek, the trail becomes notably less travelled. It is thinner in gauge, and sharp thorny plants make wearing shorts uncomfortable.

It’s not long before Oak Flat appears near the base of Red Rock Canyon. We were making good time but paused to watch a horny toad (desert horned lizard) (also, see my picture) scurry up the trail in front of us. I vividly remember doing a report in 3rd grade about the horny toad, and had never seen one before. Fun Fact: horny toads squirt blood from their eyes at a range of five feet for self defense. Cool!

We trekked on for a bit longer and reached Willett Camp. By the time that we got there, most people had already left and only a handful of tents remained just downstream. We snagged the first site we came to next to the river, and a fine site it was! We had a nice fire pit, great rocks as natural tabletops, and a sandy level patch for the tent. With the Topatopa ridge as a backdrop, the early evening unfolded after a quick nap and a snack. We started the walk up the slope into the canyon that the hot spring is nestled in. This trail is readily apparent and visible from most of the campsites, on the northern side of the river. An old chimney marks the ascent.

As you approach, the smell will alert you to your proximity. It’s not a bad smell, I kind of like it actually, but I can say that Sykes Hot Springs near Big Sur smells exactly the same. There seems to be a certain type of algae that thrives in this mineral rich water. I think of it as nature’s chlorine. Does anybody have any information about this?

There was a group of guys sitting in the tub when we arrived. All of them seemed to be kind souls just enjoying a soak, and with good company. Not long after that, we had the tub to ourselves. That’s a mental picture I’ll keep.

The tub was not what I would describe as “hot.” Definitely warmer than the ambient temperature at the time, which was in the high 70′s. I’d guess it was somewhere in the low 90′s. The temperature of the tub does fluctuate, depending on the time of day, season, etc. This is just my experience, and I’ve read conflicting reports.

I’ve also seen pictures where the water appears to be quite cloudy, as if a lot of silt had been stirred up. This was not the case and the water was mostly clear. There is a pipe that sections off a flow of water from several feet up, dedicated to feeding the tub. There seems to be decent circulation.

This hike can seem very destination centric, but really the journey is the greatest reward. Don’t get me wrong, soaking in the spring was heavenly. But, that would overlook the vastness of this wilderness, and the beauty that surrounds this place. I’m learning that this same lesson can be applied to any trip, no matter the scale.

We left the spring and enjoyed a nice fire back at camp, and watched the stars come out before retiring to our sleeping bags.

The next morning was warmer than the previous and we took our time rolling out of bed and packing up camp. We left shortly after 10:30, and marched back over the roller coaster ridges near Oak Flat. We made great time back to Bear Creek, but the sun was much hotter and it was high in the sky. We took a dip in the cool waters of Sespe River, but didn’t spend too much time in the water; it was nippy but refreshing!

That gave us enough of a boost to push us back to the car. We both had a craving for seafood, so we hit the coast.