Sitting in Sykes Hot Springs might be one of the best experiences of your life… if you do it right. The Pine Ridge Trail offers a 20 mile roundtrip to Sykes and opportunities to go deeper into Los Padres National Forest. Following the Big Sur River with rollercoaster ridges, the trail has several camps along the way to break it up: Ventana, Terrace Creek, and Barlow Flats. After a long day, it was the perfect remedy for achey muscles and feet.

The Basics:

• 20 miles round trip backpack to Sykes Hot Springs.
• Moderate to strenuous, well maintained, busy trail.
• Several designated camps are along the Pine Ridge Trail.
• Parking at the trailhead, Big Sur Station, is $5 a night, checkout time is 2PM.
• A free campfire permit is required for stoves and lanterns; there are no open fires allowed during summer months.
• Big Sur Station sells a great waterproof topo map of the area for $10, which I found to be very useful.

Willet Hot Springs in Sespe Wilderness is another 20 mile round trip to a hot springs in Los Padres National Forest, located 200 miles south of Big Sur.

Before my trip, I heard that Sykes Hot Springs had become a very popular and crowded trail. August is peak season for Big Sur, and I was a bit concerned that my solo journey would involve eating a lot of dust. I left on Monday morning hoping to avoid the weekend warriors. I certainly wasn’t alone on the trail. There were a few groups that I passed coming down, and about three groups in relative proximity to me that were heading up. That being said, I found plenty of solitude along the way, and never choked on any dust. Jumping ahead, when I hiked down on Tuesday morning, I didn’t see anyone! There are a lot fewer visitors in winter months, but the swelling river can make crossings difficult and the Springs lukewarm.

There is an unmarked fork about 100 yards in from the trailhead, go right. Left goes down to the campground. Although it’s not particularly steep, this trail ascends and descends quite dramatically. In fact, in many parts you’ll find yourself 1000 feet or more above the river. You wont have any contact with the river until you hit Sykes, but will make at least 3 creek crossings that feed into it below.

The middle portion of the trail is relatively flat as you traverse the hillside. There was a fire here in 2008 so many of the coastal redwoods have charred bark but it’s interesting to see the ecosystem rebounding. There is plenty of shade, but also lots of exposed areas so keep sunscreen handy.The first reward, Island Mountain, is quite impressive, but it doesn’t end there. Each subsequent bend in the trail reveals breathtaking valleys blanketed with pine, redwood, and oak. At the halfway mark, I took off my boots and bathed my feet in cool river water, had a snack and continued on.

Along the way, you’ll pass a handful of camps: Ventana (4.5 miles), Terrace Creek (halfway), Barlow Flats (8 miles), and then Sykes. The last 2 miles seemed to stretch endlessly. At around 4:30, the air felt stifling from mid-August heat. I cursed the uphill slogs ahead of me, being still well above the river. At last, I descended several hundred feet to the river’s edge and into Sykes Camp at 5 PM. 17,000+ feet total vertical up and about the same down.

Sykes Hot Springs is still about 15 minutes or so downstream from where the trail hits the river. They will be on the left bank. The temperature hovers around 100 degrees, though one that I sat in was a bit hotter. Some water is diverted from the source with plastic hoses for optimum bathing. It is the absolute best therapy for achy legs and feet. I layed my head back on a rock and basked. It was glorious. I had the Springs to myself for about 45 minutes, until a group of people showed up and had a dip. By then, I had accomplished my mission. Try to snag a campsite closer to the Springs if it’s not too busy. If Sykes is crowded and you’re looking for more solitude, you can fork right and head upstream for another 2 miles to Redwood Camp. And… if you have a few days and a lot of ambition you can continue farther up the Pine Ridge Trail to a whole network of others.

That night I had a pleasant view of the stars through the canopy of my tent, and the sound of the Big Sur River to lull me to sleep. The next morning, I was up at 6:00, packed and ready by 7:00, and on my way up and out of the valley. I was down by 12 noon.

I drank a gallon of water the first day. Time to invest in a filtration system. Packing in water just doesn’t make sense when you’re near delicious mountain spring water. I’ve posted a great review of the Katadyn Hiker Pro, which a friendly pair of hikers allowed me to try (otherwise, I would have boiled). I bought one after the trip and it has been essential to so many other trips..

I mentioned that this was a solo journey, something I desperately needed, and I let everyone know where I was going.  Although I didn’t see any other solo hikers, I think this trail is perfect for those wishing to do the same. Since this is a well trafficked trail, there’s is a good chance someone may be able to help if you found yourself in trouble.

BIG TIP: Since you read the whole trip report, your reward is this little nugget. Though bathing in the stream is simply sublime, you may have an urge, like I did, to buy some Technu and scrub off in a hot shower. There is poison oak everywhere! The Fernwood Inn and Campground has coin-operated showers not far north on 1 from the trailhead. Go into their convenience store, ask for a shower parking pass, and get quarters. Thanks Fernwood! You’ll benefit from my business every trip thanks to this commodity!